Yves Saint Laurent
A collection that entirely contained the color black may seem boring, but it was far from it. Creative Director Stefano Pilati went for quite a ‘mod’ look this season. Models sauntered down the runway in white shirts, black ties, loafers, etc… It all just fit together. There was quite a strong message traveling throughout the show, and it was to say…… WEAR LEATHER NEXT SEASON. Every single outfit that walked down the runway had a piece of leather included. The lapel on a blazer, the gloves, the jackets, the trousers, it all appeared everywhere. Of course we won’t complain about it as it was done so beautifully. Pilati really did it well this time, there was not a look out of place!
Yves Saint Laurent
Lanvin
I am always impressed with the fabric that is experimented in the Lanvin shows. For example the mohair surrounding the inside of a ‘mens’ coat or the orange striped PVC-like top. They never seem to disappoint. Tailoring was a huge part of this collection as it opened the show with an interesting color palette of mustard, sky blue and deep red which then took us into black, which seems to be a big trend this season. With a wide range of choice, from chunky knit jumpers to patent leather, the Lanvin man will certainly be happy.
Lanvin
Balmain
This is only the second season for Creative Director Olivier Rousteing, but already it seems he has been there for years. Rousteing proved that he understands the house of Balmain inside and out. Skinny trousers paired with leather boots and exquisitely cut tailoring was shown throughout the collection. Not only did Rousteing show a collection of what we expected, he also showed pieces we did not. Like a wine velvet waistcoat or a chunky knit jumper he tucked into red trousers. All in all it was beautiful collection.
Balmain
Mugler
Three words….tailoring, tailoring, tailoring. Nicola Formichetti and Roamin Kremer decided to actually join the fashion industry with the tailoring trend this season instead of completely going the opposite direction. The show started quite safe with white shirts, black trousers and satin coats. As the show continued fabrics such as PVC and colors such as wine and navy were introduced. The collection had a very minimalist feel throughout but had little twists here and there, like capes and even shirt dresses. I wonder who will wear those shirt dresses next season! Well done to Formichetti and Kremer, I wanted every piece.
Mugler
Louis Vuitton
Kim Jones created a collection for the man who travels this season. With oversized scarves, silk jackets and beautifully made trench coats, there was something for every man. Jones seems to have relaxed into his position as Creative Director for Louis Vuitton menswear because of his fabric choices. Kangaroo, Astrakhan, silk, need I say more? If the fabrics were adventurous, then it contrasted with the camel trench coats. Every man must have a trench coat and the ones in this collection were nothing but perfect. We must not forget the soft classic leather bags too. It all just came to a huge success.
Louis Vuitton
GN
Filed under: Balmain, Fall/Winter 2012, Fashion, Gavin Norton, Kim Jones, Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Mugler, Nicola Formichetti, Olivier Rousteing, Paris Fashion Week, Stefano Pilati, Yves Saint Laurent
Gavin Norton 